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How to Make Homemade Tortillas and Tacos.
Certain foods just put you in a good mood. Tacos, for example. The simple combination of corn tortillas, savory fillings, and zingy salsa never fails to make my day. Whether it’s grilled veggies, rich carnitas, or spicy shrimp, my favorite way to eat them is taco style.
Of course, there can be no tacos without tortillas, so it’s important to start with the best, says Shelley Wiseman, one of the taco’s biggest fans and most inventive adapters (she even wrote a book on it, Just Tacos). “There are plenty of wonderful tortillas out there,” she says, “but not even the best of them can hold a candle to the ones you make from scratch.”
I visited Wiseman, partner in The Farm Cooking School, in Titusville, New Jersey (and former Fine Cooking and Gourmet magazine food editor), on a perfect summer morning to attend one of the school’s regular classes on Mexican cooking. I was delighted to discover how easy making tortillas can be.
At the start of class, dough for flour tortillas was already resting on the counter, having been mixed and kneaded an hour before. To one batch, Wiseman had added fresh cilantro, that quintessential herb of the Mexican kitchen. As students began mixing the masa harina, salt, and water for corn tortillas—unlike their flour counterparts, corn tortillas don’t require resting and rolling—they peppered Wiseman with questions. “There are no big secrets to making tortillas,” she explained. “Just don’t overwork the dough. You want it to feel like fresh Play-Doh.”
We took turns placing the masa dough just so in the press, and then cooking the tortillas on a comal, the traditional Mexican cast-iron disk used as a griddle. (“A regular griddle works just as well,” Wiseman said.) The first time we turned our tortillas on the griddle, some puffed up perfectly, and others were a bit too thin and delicate. Wiseman encouraged another try, and another, and gradually, we fell into a rhythm and created stacks of perfect ready-to-fill corn tortillas. We placed them in the oven to keep warm.
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