About this app
Using wax as the resist method for dyeing cloth is an ancient practice. Archaeological excavations in Egypt have uncovered samples of linen covered in wax and patterned with a sharp tool used to wrap mummies dating from the 4th century BCE. Evidence of wax-resist dyeing methods has been found in China, India, Japan and West Africa from the 6th and 7th centuries CE. The history of batik production in Indonesia predates written records causing disagreement between historians as to the precise origins of batik in the archipelago. One argument is that the wax-resist method was brought to Java by Hindu explorers in the 7th century CE. However, there are batik making traditions in parts of Indonesia not directly affected by Hinduism such as Flores and Halmahera, suggesting that it evolved independently.
In Java, examples of the highly intricate patterns associated with batik have been found in the carving on temple statuary dating from the 13th century, suggesting that such methods were already common. The historian G.P. Rouffaer argues that these patterns could only be produced by the canting (or tjanting) tool: the copper spout on a bamboo handle used in batik making. Batik cloth is described in the Sejarah Melayu, a history of the kings of the Malay archipelago, as far back as the 17th century, and Dutch explorers in the same era were impressed by '...fabrics, highly decorated'.
The word 'batik' most probably comes from the Javanese words amba ('to write') and titik ('dot' or 'point') reflected in various instances of it being recorded as mbatik or mbatek. The word first appeared in English in 1880, spelled 'battik'.
The development and greater sophistication of batik became possible in the 19th century with the importation of high-quality, finely woven cloth from India and Europe. Batik production was discussed by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, British governor of Java in his 1817 book, History of Java and batik cloth became increasingly valued by collectors in Europe. The 19th century became the true golden age for batik as an integral part of Javanese culture. Different designs became synonymous with different ceremonies and for different sections of society. There were patterns exclusively for the use of the Sultan, the royal family, royal attendants, and for many other stations in life. Batik played an integral role in many important Javanese ceremonies, such as for first pregnancy, a child's naming ceremony, and offerings to the gods. Use of the canting tool became a vital part of a young Javanese woman's domestic skills, on a par with cookery.
As the population of Java increased in the late 19th century, the elaborate and time-consuming traditional method proved unable to keep with demand. Various time-saving methods were employed, including controlled pouring of the wax, and application of wax with a brush. At the end of the century, the cap (pronounced with a soft c) was invented. This is a copper stamp, carved with intricate designs, which was coated with wax and applied to the fabric. This method revolutionized batik production as it allowed complex designs to be mass-produced and drastically reduced the time required for each piece. Batik production evolved further into batik print, which incorporates the patterns and colors of traditional methods with modern mass fabric printing methods. Batik print is much quicker and cheaper to produce, thus lowering the price for the consumer so the vast majority of batik for sale today is mass-produced in factories. However, the traditional, hand-produced batik is still available, known as batik tulis ('written or drawn' batik), and can cost thousands of dollars representing the amount of time, effort and patience spent on each piece of cloth.
